There’s no gentle way to say this—Vietnamese grandparents are morning ninjas. My first sunrise at Da Nang beach hit me with the kind of reality check that should come with a warning label. I got there thinking I’d find peace and quiet, maybe a few sleepy walkers. What I found instead looked like an all-ages Olympics, headlined by the seventy-plus crowd. The air was thick with salt, the chatter was easy and unhurried, and the beach felt more alive than a Monday in a coffee shop. It started with the swimmers, slicing through the waves as if …
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