Kashmir became my home in just one visit. And almost the whole of it is because of these people.
I went on a solo trip to Srinagar and stayed with Insha and her beautiful family for 6 nights. I’ve never stayed/seen such a huge property and also lived with a joint family. The place is stunning with big rooms, wi-fi, power backup, a fully equipped kitchen, open grasslands of the size of the mansion, an orchard, a cave, and even a water stream opening to dal lake.
I was greeted very warmly by everyone. Aunty (Insha’s Mother-in-law) kept asking about my food preferences and showed me everything in the kitchen. They asked me to pick the room of my choice. When I entered the room, there were Kashmiri apples, KitKat with a water jug. Kashmiri apples were yet to hit the market, they found only one vendor selling them on the streets and bought them. The bathroom had a loofah, shower gel, toothpaste, conditioner, shampoo, soap- everything. Coming from staying in a houseboat to this was such a luxury.
A month back while booking the stay, I had told Insha that I plan to cook and work from here. She told me that she will keep the dosa batter ready for me. I was taken aback that she actually remembered it.
I went during Ramzaan and I’m a vegetarian (Hindu too). I’ve not stayed with a Muslim family before, so I was planning to go for an early dinner or late to not disturb them during iftar. At 7, Insha called me down for iftar. PS: This was my first iftar too. They made veg food just for me and for the rest of my stay and it was mostly vegetarian iftar for all of them. Even though I told them that I had no issues with non-veg. We all used to sit from 7 – 11 pm without even looking at our phones chatting non-stop. And if not for Ramzaan, we would probably be talking for much longer.
It was literally like visiting my grandma and cousin for vacation in my teenage years. Every day there will be a new delicacy for dinner. They ordered some special local cuisines from Pahalgam and asked me to take how much ever I wanted. Mossum and Insha took me out at night to try the famous eateries. By the time, I would think about doing the payment, the food was already on the table. I even met their best friend. We were always so engrossed in the conversations and in the moment – that it didn’t even occur to me to click any pictures.
Insha took me to her mom’s place where I met her parents and grandma. We then went to see a new archaeological site which is not even listed in any of Srinagar’s attractions. It was breathtakingly beautiful and serene and had zero tourists – a welcome change. While returning Insha stopped the car at the start of the lane and took me to her fav spot – even though now it was surrounded by barricades.
After one day, I was so at home that I went back to my normal routine. Getting up late, skipping breakfast. I will run after Sara (The most adorable 1.5 yr old) and aunty will run after me with the food plate, asking me to eat first. After that, I will try to go out from 2- 6.30 pm for any nearby sightseeing. And then 7- 11 dinner and chit-chat. And I loved that.
I really didn’t want to leave the house to see Kashmir. Staying with them was Kashmir to me. It was home. During dinner, everyone in the family would start discussing where should I go the next day, how will I go, etc. Which meant – depending on the time I get up which locations I would be able to cover and which person leaves the house at what time so that they can drop me off and Mossum will pick me back while coming home in the evening. I had to sometimes interrupt and remind them that I’m here on a solo trip and hence I’m capable of going and coming back on my own. In fact, that’s the whole point. To which the reply was – stay at home and roam wherever you want. Will just pick you up and drop you off.
For all the shopping, almost everything was ordered at home from their local connections. And if I don’t like anything, I could just say no without any guilt.
My family was really worried about my solo trip to Kashmir. Everyone at Insha’s place did a video call with my mom and grandparents. They were so relieved that they never called me again to enquire about my safety or itinerary. In fact, everyone is now making plans to visit Kashmir. It has suddenly become the most friendly city in India. My Nani loves Sara’s videos – especially the one where she calls me ‘Vathu’. It’s my fav too.
The lure of Kashmir is irresistible. I went back again shortly after a few months. This time I had plans to explore other places in Kashmir. I stayed in Srinagar for 4 days and 3 nights in a houseboat upon arrival. Out of the 4 days, I met Mossum (Insha’s husband) for 2 days and came home on the third. On the 4th I went to Sonmarg with a friend from 6.30 am – 8.30 pm. And I got scoldings from everyone on why I was staying outside and not at home. I kept explaining – “people, this is a solo trip”. Standard reply- stay at home and roam wherever you want to. Mossum’s default line was – saman uthao, gaadi me dalo aur ghar chalo.(Pick your luggage, put it in the car and let’s go home).
But you know this time, I could see the difference between me and the other people who have booked their Airbnb. The night when I came home – I just barged in trying to dodge Rocky (The pet dog). A big travel group from Hyderabad was staying there. The man standing in the hall saw me rushing in with no other family member in sight. I could see that he was a bit perplexed seeing a stranger walking into the house and I looked at him and thought oh, he is the tourist. I kept looking for Aunty in every room. She hugged me and then scolded me for not coming home from the airport. And then most adorably said -”aap moti ho gayi ho”. (You’ve become fat).
When Insha came home, we were sitting in their bedroom and playing with Sara. And I had a bigger smile on my face. I was no longer a tourist, I was family with just one trip. It’s crazy, beautiful, and very sacred. I’m royally pampered here and no matter whatever messy state I’m in, I return back with my heart full of so much love and joy. It’s so so special that it just can’t be captured in words.
- It’s an emotion that grows on you.
- A state of mind that changes how you think.
- A beautiful story that you live every day through your memories.
- It’s my forever happy place. It’s Home.
I met another beautiful human when I was just about to leave for the airport – Theresa(T). Even though we briefly chatted for like 15 mins while I was failing in every attempt of trying to pack an extra 12 kg in my suitcase. She has become my long-lost bestie and just can’t thank god for having her in my life. I call her my auto-complete. She said that she booked this property primarily after reading my review on Airbnb. Insha and Mossum refer to my review on Airbnb as “The Letter”. And looks like many other tourists have told them the same. This is so humbling and surreal.
Special Note –
Mossum, thank you. Had you not insisted on shortening my Pahalgam trip – I wouldn’t have met T.
Insha, Thank you for convincing Mossum to let me stay in Pahalgam for 3 nights instead of 1.
And with that, I’m missing all of you. Will be back very soon. Please don’t leave Srinagar without staying with them. You will be missing the best part.
Insha’s Place – Airbnb Link (Not A Sponsered post))
PS : Writing this was so long overdue and even though I tried jotting down the memories, I would always get choked up and start missing them so badly. I came as a tourist and went back as a family member.
Babita says
Love this .So happy for you vasu .Happy that now u start to mingle with ppls .No doubt the entire family of Mousam is so humble and full of humility.
vasudha says
Thanks, maa