I canceled this trek four times over a year and a half. The distance, the days, the sheer uncertainty of it all made me question my limits over and over.
Autumn in the Himalayas is supposed to be about crisp air, sharp views, and mountains that look like something out of a travel dream. But the mountain, bless its chaotic soul, decided to serve me rain, fog, and mud that clung to my boots like a needy friend. It was the kind of place where lofty expectations go to die, and I ended up thanking it for that.
Day one was the drive—four hours from Darjeeling to Sepi, winding through tea estates and quiet villages that seemed to whisper secrets only the hills know. Sepi was the sweetest, simplest base camp, full of wildflowers, tomato plants, and a balcony on our room facing a quiet hill. The air felt like a gentle nudge:
“Slow down. Breathe. Let the world seep in.”
I remember thinking, If this is the prelude, who needs the main act?
Day two was when the trek itself began—a steady climb up a motorable road to Ramam, about three hours in length. The sun was way too hot, like summer had sneaked in, and the path rose steadily past homes and fields, sometimes steep enough to wake up muscles that had forgotten what work even meant. It wasn’t the wild, rugged trail I’d imagined, but it was honest, grounding, a little humbling, as if the mountain was gently reminding me,
“You’re not just here for the views. You’re here for the real stuff.”
Day three was the marathon stretch—seventeen and a half kilometers up to Molley, climbing over 11,000 feet. The summit was lost to thick fog, and the view I’d come for vanished into white nothingness. I expected disappointment, maybe even a tantrum, but instead, I found peace in the quiet, waiting for the mountain to reveal itself. Sometimes,
the best lessons are the ones that arrive in silence, when you least expect them.
Day four was relentless—rain and fog blanketed the trail, forcing me to walk alone, slipping over wet stones and muddy ground, dealing with a dull headache and creeping signs of altitude sickness. At camp, I nearly broke. The trek leader’s quiet words steadied me:
“You’re stronger than you think. The real courage is showing up, even when it hurts.”
The kindness of fellow trekkers warmed a cold night, and I realized that
sometimes, not giving up is enough. It’s the smallest victories that stick with you.
Day five was quiet, moderate, gentle, with a chance to soak in the wildflowers and river sounds. The brief glimpse of the legendary Sleeping Buddha at Aal was a quiet gift, enough to make me feel like a small speck beneath the mountain’s quiet grandeur. It was a reminder that
beauty is everywhere, not just in the places you expect.
Day six led us closer to Sandakphu and Gurdum, a ten-kilometer walk through paths that felt like a slip-and-slide. The trail was wet, slippery, and squishy, a real challenge underfoot, with mud clinging to my boots and every step feeling like a contest. The peaks stayed hidden, but their presence felt like a constant companion.
As evening fell, we walked through dense woods, and only at camp did we learn the forest we’d just crossed was bear country. The news made the night feel sharper, deeper—a quiet reminder that the mountain’s wildness was never far from our steps.
Later, when I got my own room and a private bathroom, it felt like a quiet miracle after nights in cramped dorms. I laughed at myself, there in the quiet, realizing that sometimes, the real luxury isn’t a shower, but the simple act of locking your own door and not needing to whisper through the night.
“On a trek, solitude is the rarest gift.”
Day seven was the slow, soaked final walk back to Sepi, four kilometers, soaked to the bone. I lingered often, soaking in wildflowers, the creaking bridges, the shy glows of village windows.
The rain soaking my clothes became part of the story, a memory I wanted to carry like an old friend.
Sandakphu didn’t give me postcard views or grand heroics. It gave me soaked boots, cold clothes, moments of quiet fear, and kindness that felt like a fire in the cold.
The mountain taught me that real courage isn’t loudly dramatic—it’s the stubborn, quiet choice to keep moving, even when the path is hard.
“Sometimes, the only view worth finding is the one inside yourself.”
Mountains guard their truest lessons in fog and mud.
Those lessons linger longer than any summit.
Sometimes, in the muddy, misty moments, you find the clearest view
—inside yourself.
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